The first thing that grabbed my eye — and my appetite — when we were seated at City Grill about a week ago was an evening special. Beer Battered Local tomatoes were going for $8. Hmm, local tomatoes right at the end of the season when they soon would be history — terrific! Battered local tomatoes — fabulous!
In short, I was hooked.
More on that dish later. I mention the tomatoes right at the top of my review because they seem to exemplify the City Grill’s interest in local products. Cider Braised Chicken ($22) is cooked with the New York State product; Short Ribs ($30) are slowly turned to velvet in Flying Bison Aviator Red (with three-cheese baked macaroni). A special dessert that evening was a turnover made with Western New York apples. You get what I mean.
This is especially interesting because City Grill is a restaurant with a definite downtown persona. It is steps from Coca-Cola Field, five minutes to the First Niagara Center and right behind a Metro stop that can whisk you to Shea’s Performing Arts Center. The decor is quintessential cool — see-through kitchen, dining tiers surrounding a busy bar, trendy art and a glassed-in wine cellar on the mezzanine.
The place makes a big deal of wine. Saturday night is BYOW night, no corkage charge.
So, at last, we come to the tomatoes. Especially interesting because while bread-crumbed green tomatoes are an American culinary classic, these tomatoes were about as red as the Western New York sun could make ‘em. Sure, the batter seemed to slip a bit, but I didn’t care. The tomatoes were served with goat cheese, ranch dressing and fresh mesculun greens.
We also tried another evening special, Creamy Chicken Vegetable Soup ($4 cup). Verdict: nice, smooth, just a wee bit bland.
The Companion ordered Carmelle Primavera ($23) — new forms of pasta seem to turn up every day, but we found that said carmelle are hollow tubes, in this case stuffed with tomatoes and fresh mozzarella, kind of an easy-to-eat vegetarian lasagna. They came out on a platter with vegetables like carrots, broccoli florets and green beans lightly doused with olive oil and so rich in color they could have been a painting.
Well-rendered comfort food, in other words. By then we were beginning to appreciate the fact that the City Grill proprietors are Culinary Institute of America graduates, the Hyde Park school affectionately known as the CIA.
I chose Jambalaya ($20) as my entree. There was plenty of chicken in there and a generous number of shrimp. Andouille added zing. While we were in the Cajun mood, I asked for a sample of the gumbo ($4 cup). It was pretty tasty, too.
For dessert, informed by our server that there were only three portions of Peach Cobbler left, we leapt to it, forsaking the turnover. No surprise here — it was great.
CITY GRILL
3 stars
WHERE: 288 Main St. (856-2651, www.citygrill2.com). Large restaurant that features local products. Near the First Niagara Center, Coca-Cola Field and a metro stop. Credit Cards: American Express, MasterCard, Visa.
FAVORITE DISH: Beer Battered tomatoes
NEEDS WORK: Food is of good quality.
PRICE RANGE: Entrees from $20.
SERVICE:Excellent
HOURS: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday and Tuesday; 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Wednesday through Friday; 4 to 9 p.m. Saturday. Also open on nights with events in the First Niagara Center, including Sabres games.
WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Difficult. No automobile traffic allowed at the entrance. Three or four steps to the inside.
PARKING: In lots or on the side streets.

