Forest Woodward/iSTOCK INTERNATIONAL

Jubilation or despair. There’s no in-between when it comes to growing tomatoes in the Northwest. Some veggies — carrots, radishes and squash come to mind — practically grow into your kitchen and onto the table. Tomatoes, though, need a little coddling.

Even gardeners who finish the season with enough ripe fruits to pack into preserving jars and freezer bags admit to that. We could be in luck this year. Experts say chilly Lady La Niña has waved goodbye. But who wants to chance that? Better to be prepared, so we offer up some expert advice.

In the Northwest, the quest for tomatoes by the Fourth of July drives gardeners to distraction. They’ll coddle and coax to reach their goal, and then invite friends to dinner, serve a fresh BLT and get in a little bragging at the same time. Then there are those of us who are grateful to get red tomatoes in time to make tomato sauce in September.

Carl Barney, owner of Uncle Waynes Tomatoes, a small farm in Eagle Creek, serves up some tips for getting tomatoes to ripen by early July, maybe even before.
 
*Look for a variety that has low “days to maturity” and, if possible, one that can set fruit in cool temperatures. Days to maturity is the average number of days it takes a transplant to produce a ripe fruit in average temperatures and soil. Use this as a guide. Your results will vary.

*Most tomatoes want a nighttime temperature of 50 degrees, usually around Mother’s Day, to begin setting fruit. Some varieties are content to get started with only 40-degree nights. Varieties that I recommend include ‘Stupice,’ ‘Glacier,’ ‘Siletz,’ ‘Gold Nugget,’ ‘Sun Gold,’ ‘Siberia,’ ‘Fourth of July’ and ‘Moskvich.’ There are others. Every grower has favorites.

*Warm the soil as much as you can. Raised beds and south-facing locations are best. You can plant through ground covers such as black or red plastic. Using Wall o’ Water or similar products will also help.

Black plastic has been used for years, and works well. Some growers feel the relatively new “red mulch” — a thin red plastic — works even better. You can lay down the plastic, then cut a hole and plant through it. Or, you can plant first, then cut a slit and slide the plastic around the plants. Barney’s field tests showed the red mulch did outproduce the black.

Wall o’ Water and similar products surround the new plants with a plastic cone that can be filled with water. According to the manufacturer, it will protect young plants down to at least 28 degrees. Barney’s best results have come from leaving the water cone on all season. Just let the plant grow right out of it. Even in hot summer sun, the plants will do fine. Use a sturdy cage that fits over the cone. More instructions are included with the Wall o’ Water, which is widely available at garden centers and online.

The Oregonian

Tomato Growing Tips:

Go for full sun. Tomatoes can take a little morning shade, but full sun is preferable and afternoon sun is absolutely essential.

Select sturdy plants. Dig a large, deep hole that can accommodate the whole root system and half of the tomato stem. Add amendments, such as all-purpose fertilizer and lime, to the bottom of the hole and mix into the soil. Remove leaves from the bottom half of the stem. Plant the tomato, including the bare stem, leaving enough leafless stem so that leaves do not touch the ground (your tomato should look as if it has a little trunk). Firm soil around plant.

Use a strong tomato cage for support. Weak wire cages won’t keep plants up.
Do not overwater or use overhead watering. Instead, let a hose run for several minutes at the base of the plant for deep soaking. Depending on conditions, water heavily about once every two days.

Healthy, vigorous plants are less likely to be attacked by diseases or pests. Choose disease-resistant varieties.
During growing season, remove any brown, off-color or sick-looking leaves and stems. Keep stems plucked of leaves near the ground to prevent soil-borne diseases.

Rotate tomatoes into a new bed each year to avoid diseases. Burn or dispose of debris after harvest rather than composting it. 

– Kym Pokorny